There may be more than one might expect in design generation of even the most simple of designs. This ring design project for my local clients Sam and Maureen starts in the CAD application “Rhinoceros” with what are called “formers” comprised of mostly open and closed curves around which the ring will be formed. This first process image depicts the most basic initial former, a circle that is the diameter of a specific ring size. In this case, a size 5~US. Also visible are the formers used to create the bezel which holds the gemstone.
Next I form the shank by splitting the sizing curve in half and making closed curves which will become the cross-section of the new ring shank.
Next, the shank is formed by “sweeping” the rail (the semi-circle) using the cross-section curves as guides. This form is still only a surface at this point with open ends.
I will mirror that shank surface to form the complete ring and close the ends to make it a solid. Then I move the bezel into place for a finished ring. Again, this seem simple enough but it often takes a lot of manipulation of the rail and the cross sections before the resultant surface meets my expectation of aesthetic and function! The same is true for each element of design generation.
I can then in most cases add nearly anything a client wants on the inside of the ring, or on the outside as additional decoration. This design as is will be very clean-lined.
This basic design can be modified to accommodate any size gem or finger size, the bezel can be taller or shorter and the shank can be wider or narrower. Or we can use this as a starting point and add decoration per client request. Once we have the design nailed down, we print the design on our B9Creator® and cast in the precious metal you choose.
At Gary Dawson Jewelry Design we take a lot of pride in the fact that we can claim sole authorship in nearly everything we make for our clients! From design generation to gem setting and final polish, it is all done in our small studio in Eugene, OR. With over 40 years of design and manufacturing experience, we are prepared to make you smile when you see your ideas combined with our expertise come together in heirloom quality jewelry. Or select one of our growing number of existing designs and we will produce it for you with the love and care you would expect from a master craftsperson!
And thank you very much to Sam and Maureen for allowing me to use this example and their names to personalize the project even further!
I have to admit that sometimes it’s hard to stay in the office or workshop when the weather is so nice! We’ve been experiencing a pretty fantastic spring here in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. A concern however is that with very little snow-pack in our Cascade Mountains, our ongoing drought could mean a bad fire-season later.
The work deluge of really fine jobs that are rolling in through Gary Dawson Jewelry Design is both encouraging and satisfying!
This depicts a recent job of setting client-owned pale aquamarine in simple white gold settings for a pendant and earring set.
Note the branding detail…
I’m really looking forward to making an engagement ring of a 1.16ct diamond macle as an upcoming project
and have some gorgeous princess rubies coming for another project. Keep ‘em coming my friends!
A custom jewelry designer probably makes more commitment jewelry than any other single category. At least that seems to be the case with my work. But people choose to memorialize other events, occasions and ideas with custom jewelry and these projects provide a fun opportunity to explore interesting geometries and make things besides rings.
I posted this beginning 3D draft of an interesting group of projects on my Facebook page a couple of weeks ago. The clown project evolved very nicely into a 14K gold, magic clown holding a bunch of balloons with a rainbow of gems in the background!
The finished piece incorporated both a bail and a pin finding so it could be worn as a pin or pendant. And although it was fairly flat to lay nicely as a pendant, I used perspective to create the effect of a clown reaching and stepping forward, as though to hand the balloons to someone. He appears to be turned slightly to his left, and reaching forward with his right hand while stepping forward with his right leg, bringing the right side of his body, the left side as you face the pendant, a little closer to the viewer.
The balloons are made of cabochon cut gemstones in emerald, ruby, garnet, sapphire and amethyst. Tiny rubies, emeralds and tsavorite garnets make up the rainbow.
It was nice to hear that the recipient of the gift, to celebrate a 30th anniversary…loved it! I welcome any interesting design challenges at Gary Dawson Jewelry Design.